Hardware Install Instruction

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This kit contains the necessary components to allow you to cut foam with a hot wire. The kit was designed with the ability to be adapted to an existing CNC machine or as a stand alone, stationary unit. This is an ideal addition for sculpting and crafting foam for a variety of hobbies and projects. As a standalone unit, this kit can be mounted to a table and give you the ability to cut foam manually by hand. It can also be adapted to your CNC machine for precision cutting and shaping. The variable voltage device allows you to easily control the heat of the wire depending on the application.

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All included components.

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Steel rods/arms to hold the wire.

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Aluminum mounting adapters for the steel rods with single rubber washer.

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Set screws for mounting adapters.

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Non conductive nylon (M6)machine screws with nuts.

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Foam cutting hot wire with crimp end connections.

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Zip-ties for wire cleanup.

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Alligator clip connections for powering the hot wire.

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Connector springs to keep proper tension of hot wire.

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M6 machine screws (4), M6 flat washers (8), M6 lock washers (4), M6 nuts (2)

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M10 nuts(2), M10 washers(2)

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Included hex keys

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Variable voltage output controller. (To control the heat of the wire, and on/off)

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We will first begin by attaching the nylon machine screws and nuts to the springs.

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Thread one of the nuts onto the machine screw about ¾ of the way on.

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Now slide the end of the spring over the machine screw all the way to the nut.

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Next, we will thread on the second nut, sandwiching the spring between the two nuts.

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This is now what both springs should look like.

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Now we will attach the springs to the steel rods by threading the nylon machine screws into the end of each rod.

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There is a threaded hole on one end of each steel rod. Threading the nylon machine screws into the steel rods.

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Completed.

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Now lets prepare the mounting adapters by starting the set screw into the threaded hole on the side as shown. Don’t tighten it just yet, just get it started.

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Now slide the steel rods into the mounting adapters.

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Slide them in about 1” past the threads like shown. This distance will be fine tuned later on.

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Now tighten up those set screws with the hex key. (just snug for now)

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Both rods are ready.

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Now we will straighten out our wire.

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Begin by cutting off the heavily kinked end (about 3-5”)

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Now wrap the wire around the rod. With one hand, pinch the wire tight against the rod and with the other hand, pull the wire slowly. Keep good tension in the wire during this process in order to straighten out the wire as best as possible. You may need to do this more than once to get all the kinks out.

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Second time around.

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We are now ready to install the crimp end connectors. Parts: Crimp end connectors (2),

          Wire (cut approx. 1-2 inch longer than needed length,),
         Ceramic cone (1) 

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To attach the wire to the crimp end connector, begin by feeding the wire through from the bottom of the connector. Feed through about 2-3” to start with.

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Now, loop the short end of the wire around the base of the connector and feed it back down through the crimp section.

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Pull on both the long and short end of the wire until there is no slack left in the “loop” that was created.

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There should now be only about ½” of the short end sticking through.

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Crimp down on the crimp section with a pair of pliers. Make sure to get a good, tight connection.

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Completed.

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Next, feed the end of the wire through the ceramic cone as shown. This step is only necessary when you want to make a stationary unit. Otherwise, you can skip this step.

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Next, attach the other crimp connector to the other end following the same steps as before.

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Crimp the connector just as before.

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Now, you can attach the wire connector to the spring so that the cone covers the crimp connector like shown.

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Attach the other side of the wire to the other spring. Some adjustment may now be necessary in the positioning of the steel rods in order to put some tension in the wire.

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Connect the negative alligator clip to one of the end connectors like shown.

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Connect the positive to the other.

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Now, cut the plug off the opposite end of the alligator connecting wire.

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Separate and strip the insulation from the ends of the red and the black wires.

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'We are now ready to connect the alligator connecting wires to the variable voltage output board.

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Insert the one wire into the “M1” terminal and tighten down the set screw.

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'Insert the second wire into the “M2” terminal and tighten the set screw.

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Now, prepare your 12V power supply by stripping the insulation to expose about ¼” of the black wire and the red wire.

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Insert the red wire (positive output) into the (+) terminal and tighten down the set screw.

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Now, insert the black (negative) wire into the (-) terminal and tighten down the set screw.

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Be sure the switch is in the OFF(center) position.

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Be sure the potentiometer is turned to the farthest counter-clockwise position. We want to start with 0 volt when we turn the power on.

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Connect the power supply to the AC plug.

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Be sure the power supply is set at 12V.

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Plug the power supply into your wall outlet.

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You can now flip the switch to either of the ON positions.

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Turning the potentiometer in the clockwise direction will increase the voltage output and therefore increase the temperature of your cutting wire. This temperature will need to be adjusted depending on you feed rate and the type of foam you are using. Meantime, test the temperature by cutting a foam, until the wire can cut through the foam with reasonable feed rate.

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Here is a sample test cut, manually feeding foam into the wire.

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'

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Here is one option of mounting this kit to your ZTW CNC 7x7 machine. The base (Y Axis) will be fixed faced down, and the gantry (X Axis) will be faced backward. In this case, only Y(base) and X(gantry) movements are used.

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Adapters plates such as these can be easily made using the material of your choice to fix the aluminum adapter blocks in place. We utilized the existing spindle adapter plate and holes.

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As you can see here, the Y-axis cutting table has been flipped and bolted to the wood board underneath it.

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